Did you know that Halloween is also Reformation day? Did you know that Berlin is only an hour away from Wittenberg, home to Martin Luther and the famous Castle Church where Luther nailed his 95 theses to the door starting the Reformation? Did you know that Wittenberg has a huge Renaissance festival celebrating the Reformation on the 31st? Our original plan had been to leave Berlin and head straight to Dresden, but with the previously stated facts, we decided we pretty much had to go to Wittenberg. It was pure serendipity. So with our traveling buddies, John and Amanda, we said Auf Wiedersehen Berlin und Guten Tag Wittenberg.
It was a quick train ride-- barely enough time to unpack our ipods. 41 minutes and we were in the famed town. The train station was very small. The information office was closed. The ticketing office attendant didn’t speak English. And we couldn’t find lockers in which to store our bags. As we came to the realization that we’d be wandering around that day through large crowds with our enormous and heavy bags on our backs, a redheaded, spritely, older woman walking german shepard mix approached us and started speaking in German to us.
“Sorry, wir sprechen English” Jacob said to her. That didn’t seem to bother her one bit though. She enthusiastically continued to go on about something in German, trying her best to say a keyword or two in English to follow up whatever she had just said in German.
“Festive!” she said as she pointed toward the town. We nodded yes enthusiastically even though from where we stood the town pretty much looked deserted. She turned to Jacob and started speaking in German again, once again adding some English as best she could.
“Actor! Henry!” She pointed at Jacob then counted on her fingers to 8. “Actor Henry Acht,” she said once again motioning to Jacob. She then pantomimed chopping someone’s head off. We got it.
“Yes, Henry the 8th!” I said, so she knew we understood her. She nodded, smiling and pointing at Jacob again. Jacob did one of those smile, laugh, and nod approvingly motions, and we all chuckled approvingly. I think we might have confirmed for her that yes, Jacob is in fact an English actor who plays Henry the 8th. Glad she didn’t ask for an autograph!
After introducing us to and telling us about her dog, she wanted us all to pet him. The only bit of German I was able to fully understand was when she told her dog to “Say hello to the English woman” as she brought the dog over for me to pet. It was a wonderful welcome to the town of Wittenberg.
Laughing about what had just happened, we walked into town progressing toward Castle Church, where ML called BS on the CC. “Yowza McGowza” the place was packed. You wouldn’t have guessed it by the practically empty train-station. It was a much classier affair than the MN Renaissance Festival (no offense MN RenFest fans). No cheesey wooden building facades, no “medieval” insult comics with names like “booger-face” and “gunk,” and no turkey legs. There were, however, lots of food stands with delicious looking German fare, as well as lots of house made wines and liquors and many craft stands that weren’t just selling leather bracelets and blown glass. I wish we would have been able to wander around a bit more, but our lack of time and massive packs made that too difficult.
Massive backpacks+large crowds= :(
Eventually we made it to the very door where Martin Luther nailed his 95 these. Well, it wasn’t the original door-- the original door burned down when the church was destroyed during the seven years wars (the church was rebuilt soon thereafter). Instead, a large metal door-like plaque with the theses written out marks the spot where the original door stood.
In elementary and junior high school, our social studies books were filled with bold words that were highlighted as being particularly important things to remember and understand. Whenever I encounter these words in the real world, it’s a pretty magical moment. Almost as if a little spark hits my brain as I can imagine the bold word on the page. Standing at the Castle Church Door on Reformation day definitely made me think of some of those bold words.
We decided that it might be best if we found a park where two of us could chill out and watch the bags while the other two explored the church inside. Jacob and I stood guard first, while Amanda and John toured the church. It was a beautiful fall day-- felt more like late September--- and we lounged in a grassy area near the church.
Next, it was our turn.
Our glimpse of the church was enhanced by an orchestra rehearsing in the balcony.
Afterward, Jacob and I quickly walked through a few of the stands to see what was available for purchase. And guess what we found!? More Marzipan potatoes! Only this time they were life size! We bought two (one for us, one for John and Amanda), and hurriedly walked back to the grassy area where we left our traveling companions.
We excitedly presented them to John and Amanda, explaining what they were. We were all bit hungry, so we unwrapped the treats and took a few bites.
Man, they really do look like potatoes, don’t they? The novelty just doesn’t wear off for me.
The joke about our trip to Wittenberg was “how many times are you in Wittenberg on Reformation Day?” For me I assumed that the answer would be once. But it was pretty awesome—I’d do it again.
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